Unshocking renditions of bistro classics are the draw at this cozy spot, located in a mall in fact, if not in spirit.

Appetizers from this London restaurant include a subtly caramelized onion soup with a decadent draping of cheese baked on top.

Among entres, juicy grilled duck breast with wild rice stands out, as does the salmon roasted with stone ground mustard and honey mustard.

And what more could you ask from the straight-ahead steak Banlieue than that it be accompanied by mellow roasted vegetables and a big handful of crispy frites?

American and other international touches stave off predictability: Fish may well come with cilantro basmati rice or couscous; bread pudding, with dried cherries.

Most entres are offered in two sizes a boon if you want to save room for chocolate mousse.

Nice selection of affordable wines by the glass.

44 Yorktown Convenience Center, London

630-629-6560